Here it is. The event of the year. Well, it is if you are the type of climber who likes the icy chill of the wind on your cheeks, the sniff of adventure in the nostrils, and monster mountains staring you down while you while eat your porridge.

The Darran Mountains Winter Climbing Meet 2009 is for all those wanting to be part of the winter climbing community. We envisage that the meet will mainly be for people who already have at least a basic grounding in climbing techniques such that they are self-sufficient, and the event will not be a climbing school but rather a setting in which climbers can get together. We would like to see a real mix of climbers attend, from those climbing grade 2, right through to those poking out new lines at grade 7. Those climbing at more modest grades can gain from the encouragement and advice the harder climbers can give, and the harder climbers should feel that there are others coming along snapping at their heels to keep them on their game.

The Darran Mountains have a lot to offer climbers of all abilities.

Moderate climbing
A climb of any mountain in the Darrans in winter is a rare and awesome achievement. If you are starting from Homer Hut then you have at least 1200 vertical metres of climbing ahead of you. Mt Crosscut, Barrier Peak, Mt Talbot and Mt McPherson overlook the Homer Hut area. Some of these climbs can be fairly non-technical, but that doesn't mean that conditions are going to make it easy for you. As per last year when the Darrans didn't have too much problem brushing us off.

Hard climbing
So much to do. First, you can get into the swing of things on one of the 800m technical lines near the hut—Barrier Face, Midnight Cowboy, Coumshingaun. Second, you can break out your best mixed climbing on frozen turf, ice and rock—anything from a few pitches to over 1000m straight up. Pick either a climb that has already become legendary despite only a handful of ascents (Cul de Sac, White as a Sheet, Heart of Gold, Hotel Carribbean) or make your own first ascent. When people say there are thousands of unclimbed winter lines in the Darrans they aren't exaggerating. You may as well start with new climbs next to the hut. Third, you can force a route up an unclimbed winter peak. Or be one of only a few who have stood on top of Mt Tutuko in winter.

Insane climbing
The future of climbing is the Darrans in winter. That has been said for a long time. It is just that we have been waiting for the future to arrive for a long time. The Darrans are simply the steepest mountains in the country with the biggest faces. Take your pick. Pretty much any peak has the hardest new route in the country waiting on one of its faces. You can start with the 2000m megacouloir on the west face of Mt Tutoko.

Details
Please contact Alastair as early as possible so he knows how many people to expect.

You do not have to bring a climbing partner.

Going to Homer Hut (New Zealand Alpine Club, NZAC) is a natural choice. As well as having climbs of all standards right on the doorstep, it is next to the road and it is big and comfy. The hut does not have power. There are next to no services at Milford Sound. You will need to get all your provisions in Te Anau before driving in. There is no mobile phone coverage at either Homer Hut or Milford Sound.

The NZAC has a guidebook for the area, which you will no doubt want to get your hands on before the meet.

Everyone needs to write their intentions in the hut book before climbing since the area gets bombed as part of the avalanche control. It is possible for the road into the Darrans (the Milford Road, running from Te Anau to Milford Sound) to be closed because of avalanche hazard. Remember, you have to keep your car at Homer Hut during winter because most of the road is a no stopping zone (the avalanche thing again). You will need chains for your vehicle even if the road is clear of snow. Works Infrastructure runs an avalanche program for the road and we get good information from them regarding snow conditions. If the driveway from the road to the hut is covered in snow you will have to smile sweetly at the Works Infrastructure guys to clear the path with a snowplough. Make sure you are very happy with your avalanche awareness. You might want to read this guide on avalanches.

It is likely most people will climb from the hut, returning at night. Those intending to have a multi-day mission or two might want to bring their tent. You will want rock protection (in particular pitons if you have them), snowstakes, and any ice gear you have (including pound-in snargs, warthogs and ice hooks). If you have or can get hold of snowshoes then it is a good idea to bring them. However, most of the time the valleys are free of snow. You may well wish to carry a snow shovel, probe, avalanche transceiver and bivy gear.

Contact: Alastair Walker
Email: mealluaine@xtra.co.nz

I missed out last year, but I'm totaly keen for this year!! :)