Ruapehu Technical Climbing Course
20–21 June 2009
(Backup date: 27–28 June 2009)
THis is a realy great course, it is what gave me the confidence to start climbing lots :) I have been on both courses. Definitly go if you are at all keen on climbing big mountains!! :)
This course is for anyone who is already comfortable with using
ice axe and crampons and can look after themselves on the mountain. It
is for those having mastered basic mountaineering techniques but
wanting to advance to climbing technical mountains.
This is the third year that free technical climbing instruction
will be held on Ruapehu. In the past there has been "basic" and
"advanced" technical climbing weekends. Owing to the organiser's
increasing prowess in the handling of group dynamics, there will be
only one weekend this year and both courses will run simultaneously.
Because the courses cannot run in poor weather, there is a back-up date
one week later. If you are flying from the South Island or Australia
then it may be a good idea to stay the entire nine days and climb like
mad on the mountain (staying in the NZAC hut on Whakapapa skifield for
instance). Just an idea.
Those who have attended previously are welcome to sign up
again. There are no limits on numbers but please email me regarding
your attendence so that you can be contacted in case of cancellation.
If anyone would like to help with instruction then please (please,
please) let me know. In addition, look at the description of the
courses below and let me know which would suit your experience more.
This won't mean you will get locked into the one course, it just gives
me a better idea of what to plan for.
The courses are unique in that after a few hours instruction
you go out and lead pitches all by yourself rather than having your
hand held. You are likely to learn more in two days than you would on a
two-week course costing thousands of dollars. These trips aren't "snow
school trips" for beginners (the clubs already do these fabulously
well) and thus require participants to look after themselves in terms
of accommodation, travel, food, and gear (I don't arrange any of this)
and having the experience to get themselves around the mountain. You
need to work out your own expenses but the events themselves are free.
There will be a thread on the www.mountainz.co.nz forum for anyone
wanting to make arrangements (e.g., travel) with other people and I
will let you know when this is ready for use.
The course will start on the Saturday at 10am at the NZAC hut
on Delta Corner on the Whakapapa Skifield. Note that the hut is a
2-hour walk from the car park (or a quicker ride in the chairlift). We
will finish early afternoon on the Sunday.
Basic Snow Climbing and Rope Techniques
You should already know how to use ice axe and crampons, navigate,
belay, abseil and tie a few knots. We'll briefly go over alpine anchors
then get into leading, leading with two ropes and simulclimbing. If
there is any good ice about we'll have some top ropes set up and go
over ice climbing techniques. Then it's off to the Pinnacles to put it
all into practice, including night climbing for those inclined.
Advanced Leading
You should already be climbing grade 2 and
be comfortable on steepish ground. We'll go over the same rope
techniques as for the basic course but focus more on ice screw and
piton placements, including how to place gear and set anchors while on
your front-points. We'll cover mixed (thin ice and rock) climbing
techniques and leashless climbing. We'll then jump on some good
practice leads in the Pinnacles.
Contact: Glenn Pennycook
Email: mailtothechief@gmail.com