BAAA - Newletter of the Victoria University of Wellington Tramping Club
Volume 19, Issue 2, August 2000 Trip Reports |
Arthur's Pass National Park - Mid-Year Trip - July 8-16
|
By Dave HodsonSeems to be heaps happening on all fronts and by tonnes of people. Good to see some making the most of snow and ice, and that others realize that rock is still fun in winter! Here's a list of happenings, probably not complete or entirely accurate - but I've tried.Rock SceneTourney was fun. Team Vic came second in the climbing. Andy Hoyle, Andrew Nevin, Dan Mackay and Dave H all qualified for the men's final - won by Andy. Sylv qualified in the women's section. Top three men and women contribute to the team score, so coming second with only one woman in the team was a good effort - we'll beat Massey next time.Rock climbing instruction course. Seemed to work and fun enough, I definitely enjoyed Saturday night, although in hindsight I should've been shocked by the alcohol intake of Peter and Richie. Everyone played hard, with some impressive first-up climbing being done - especially loved the joint effort by Pete and Richie on Spiky Norman (16, Froggat Edge).Glyn impressed on Pupuke Centre (steep 15) and everyone went super keen. Baring Head hasn't been seeing so much club action recently, lucky that Scott, Pete and Richie are keeping up our presence out there. Titahi Bay and crazy cave fire photography soloing by Andrew may make up for it ? or maybe windy boulder problems by Dave H and Simon on the Wairarapa coast? And the rec. Still people pulling and playing - 100.8 fm for the music. See ya there. Plus Fergs and Hangdog are seeing the occasional visit by people wanting to stay in/improve shape over winter. While others went Arthurs Passing, Andrew, Sylv and Dave hit Paynes Ford and Matt Bayliss, Dave Kopp, Dan Mackay, Kevin et al. went north. Paynes was all good, lots of poi action and a dose of climbing. Andrew got Redlining to the Max (23), onsighted Rawhide (22) and generally went crazy. Dave did the occasional climb - favourite would have to be Rat up a Drainpipe (20) but spent more time on Gangrene (25, next time!!). Sylv climbed and fell and rope burned and tree scraped and inverted and swam and climbed some more. Most of the north-ites sent Ado (V6?), Dan bouldered 0-10 in 60 (25), Dave K almost got Mossy Menopause (V8) and all had fun. Derek, Rachael and John are firmly ensconced in Chch now, climbing full-time and none of them have quite sent the job project some news: John onsighted/ flashed Rambandit 21 at castle hill – very impressive ascent of a scary crack. Derek did Quantum Mechanics V8 and onsighted a V6 chair at 9a (the chch co-op hippy sharing climbing wall). Rach pioneered squeeze boulder through gap in school chair V0-, Derek got second ascent – Johnny Bravo nearly had to call Fire Brigade but managed to back off. Maybe naked and oiled will get him through it? John is an apprentice offwidther. He has a passion for hand jams, body jams and jam sandwiches. Derek got the third ascent of an off width while John tried but fell out, luckily not in. John nearly became the jam. John did his 2nd V5 at Castle Hill and many V4's as well as some impressive mantle / grovels. More importantly he got a rare ascent (possibly 2nd ascent) of an 'Andrew Nevin' run and jump problem. Apparently John is becoming a premiere New Zealand run and jump man. Rachael's done heaps, including It's love V6 and Jihad V7 (only the second NZ woman to climb this grade. Derek has been doing new routes all over Castle Hill including Jant (V8), an old project - Monkey see, Monkey Do (V7) and "one of the best problems ever" Vision (V7) at Dry Valley. He also claimed the third ascent of dag-muncher at Hulk Hogan, downgrading it to V8. And some comments for all, from the south crew. "What about the Baring Head Action? Hope you fucking Hippys are still doing some shit." Climbing advice from and for the (wannabe) hard-core: "Say 'Fiddlesticks' every time you fall off and want to throw a wobbler." Alpine SceneOver Easter Simon and Eric headed to Fiordland for a look at Tutoko but went up Madeline instead. They then cruised into the Beetham Valley and the West Ridge of Malte Brun but turned back due to soft snow after a cold bivvy.In early June, Simon, Lisa Lee-Johnson, Benj, Glyn, June, Peter, Jeremy H, and Eric wandered up to the top Chair at Turoa in a bit of a storm for a ski. Basic AIC had 32 pupils and 11 instructors. Nice hard snow, great weather, people learned heaps. Including: how to relieve yourself out of a moving van, compromise about the rugby, eat Johnny's chocolate éclairs and look dangerous at cafes. Looks like there's some serious keenness, huge plans and potential for big action later in the year. July 8-16 saw heaps of alpine happenings as well as all the rock. About 20 people went on the club mid-winter Arthur’s Pass trip (see the Arthur’s Pass trip reports in this isue). Those remaining in Wellington didn't merely eat pies though. The Grand Pinnacle on Ruapehu was played on by Benj and others and eventually topped out on by Graham, Catherine and Jeremy H. The following weekend Jeremy H, Jeremy B, Duncan, Glyn, Benj, Catherine, and Joe went to Ruapehu, most visited the top and they all played around on frozen waterfalls. Then off to Mangatepopo for a dose of rock in original style - alpine ropes, no climbing shoes and minimal gear. Ta Lao the old-school way by Jeremy!! Simon did some skiing and wandered up one of the pinnacles from Grand Gully. Andy H, Matt Woods and Dave Morgan also hit Ruapehu, a week of snow cave based action climbing, boarding and skiing around Whakapapa (following up on their mountain day-trips and weekends). Going hard and having fun! For those keen to climb, now is the moment! Instruction and climbing trips galore to choose from. A selection: two rope skills nights in Wellington, two rock climbing trips in the next two months, two advanced alpine instruction courses, a weekend trip to Taranaki, a Ruapehu weekend, the inter-club trip also to Ruapehu, a trip to Tapi, and another to the Hopkins Valley - probably to attempt Mount Ward. Wow. So much to do. (see the updated calendar in this issue of Baaa for more details). Dunno where I'll see y'all next - probably at meetings I guess - but I'll keep an eye out at Ruapehu, Egmont, Baring Head, North rock, Paynes, the rec. and further south over the next few months (I expect to see most of you!). Bye for now
p.s. chuck any climbing news in my direction for the next instalment. |
|