Trip Reports

• Rocking Climbing Blurb

Rocking Climbing Blurb

by Dave Hodson

Lots of climbing has been done, but it seems to have been the preserve of only a few tramping club members - although it must be getting close to summer as more people have started talking about venturing out.

Whanganui Bay, Froggat, Smiths and Baring Head have dominated, along with the perennial rec. The stickers that designate climbs are now only rarely, if ever, maintained cos we can't be bothered; we're looking into an alternative way of recording them. Involves a hold numbering system and it could be on the way shortly (after negotiation with the rec. centre people). Thursday nights 8-10:30 are still happening, usually a good session.

Eric, Benj, Keren, Catherine and others have ventured indoors again. John K's wall is up and running. Good, worth getting an invite to - take beer. Time to bore with some numbers. People have done lots. Dave M, Andy, John K and others have discovered etriers and hooks and are aiding like crazy at Titahi Bay. Here are some examples. Jon B did Silent Freeway (24) at the Bay, as well as a host of other climbs. Dave W, Brendan, Nils and Chris headed up to Wharepapa and did a lot of Slug Wall routes (Froggat) but had trouble with the rugby. Derek redpointed Louder (28) and sent Mossy Menopause (V8, first ascent by a New Zealander) at Froggat. Dave H redpointed Opel (24) and earned a hair-cut, now it's time to get on some hard stuff or perhaps even a classic or two. Dan the man got Opel, Dave Kopp onsighted Opel and ticked Totalling Dad's Car (26). Stu's been putting in some time and did the right hand slab route at the head. Andrew Nevin found a new pile of choss - somewhere near Whitby in some pine trees if you're interested - climbed on it and had nightmares about it (or should have, according to his description). Lots of other stuff too, don't be offended if you're not on the list - it's biased towards those I've seen or climbed with recently.

A few new routes have been put up at Baring Head this year - a few were mentioned last time. Since then there have been a couple of notable ones. The label climb (or man?), courtesy of Steve Conn, eliminates a hold from Tango to bump it up a bit, maybe V8 although those who've done it are a bit non-committal. Derek's Fat boys can't jump (V4/5) is a sit start under the Raw terror roof ending at the good hold three moves past the lip. Lunch break (V0), by Dave, is a sit start to the right of Stepping out. It had been overlooked for ages, and looked like it should stay that way until I got on it and was pleasantly surprised - well worth doing. The roof on the 'Only the good die young wall' has been climbed direct by Derek, yielding Escape from the Cuddly-Bears (stiff V7).

The scoop on the long wall kinda down from Show of Strength is again seeing some concerted efforts. Looks hard - could become one of New Zealand's hardest??

Rachel Mayne at Whanganui Bay

Interview time (conducted during a break at the rec.): "So Derek, why did you name the climb 'escape from the cuddly-bears'?" "Well, I was crossing the river (at the ford not the river mouth cos I'm soft) and these cuddly bears came out of it and chased me down the beach. When I was at the head, they ran around on the top of the rocks, laughing and throwing pebbles. So I did the climb and then they left me alone. I don't know where they went" (I was there and the bears I saw didn't look particularly cuddly, so I had to ask:) "Is that true, Derek?" "No, not really, the bears were throwing shells, not pebbles".

Other stuff

Summer.

See ya in the sun somewhere (visit the Olivines!!)